Mezcal
The history of mezcal, an ancient Mexican spirit, is rooted in the cultural practices of indigenous peoples who cultivated the agave plant long before European influence. The origins of mezcal can be traced back to pulque, a fermented beverage made from agave sap, which dates to at least 200 B.C., as evidenced by archaeological findings around the Teotihuacan and Oaxaca regions. Pulque, known as “octli” to the Aztecs, played an essential role in the religious and social practices of Mesoamerican civilizations, revered as a sacred drink believed to connect people with their gods.
Pulque is derived from the aguamiel, or “honey water,” found in the heart of the agave plant. The process of making pulque involved extracting this sap and allowing it to naturally ferment. Due to its ritual significance, pulque consumption was typically restricted to the elite, priests, warriors, and elders, as a mark of spiritual connection. Although highly regarded, pulque was limited in alcoholic content and was never distilled, differing from modern mezcal and tequila.
With the arrival of Spanish settlers in the early 16th century, indigenous techniques began to evolve. The Spanish introduced distillation technology, which they had likely learned from Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cultures. This new technology allowed the indigenous people to experiment with agave fermentation in novel ways, giving rise to mezcal. The Spaniards initially used small, makeshift stills made from clay and bamboo to distill agave spirits, forming the foundation of mezcal production. This adaptation allowed for the creation of a higher-proof spirit, marking the beginning of a new tradition distinct from pulque.
The term “mezcal” itself is derived from the Nahuatl word “mexcalli,” meaning “oven-cooked agave.” The process of making mezcal involves cooking the agave piñas, or hearts, in underground pits lined with volcanic rock, which gives mezcal its characteristic smoky flavor. This ancient method, which remains largely unchanged in many regions, captures the unique terroir of Oaxaca and surrounding states. Mezcal, unlike pulque, became widely consumed across social classes and emerged as a staple in rural areas where agave plants thrived.
In recent centuries, mezcal has evolved into a widely celebrated spirit, recognized globally for its unique flavors and artisanal methods. Despite the popularity of tequila, which is a more modern, highly commercialized agave spirit derived specifically from blue agave, mezcal has preserved its traditional roots and is still made using various types of agave plants. Today, mezcal is viewed as a testament to Mexico’s enduring cultural heritage, capturing the legacy of indigenous practices and Spanish influence—a blend of old and new world traditions that began with the humble pulque.
